Full alloy
refurbishment
The whole wheel taken back to bare metal and rebuilt. Not a scuff filled and blown over — the finish comes off entirely, the corrosion goes with it, and what goes back on is new.
Price your wheels
60 secondsa wheel stripped to bare alloy · client photography
Stripping is the whole job
Anyone can spray a wheel. The difference between a refurbishment that lasts eight years and one that bubbles next winter is entirely in what happens before the colour goes on.
Old lacquer and paint come off chemically, not by blasting the face. Blasting is faster and it roughens the alloy, which is why blasted wheels often look slightly cloudy under a gloss finish. Chemical stripping leaves the metal as the factory cast it.
Corrosion then gets cut out rather than covered. Aluminium oxide creeps under a coating and keeps going, so if any is left behind the new finish lifts from that point. This is the step that gets skipped when a price looks too good, and it is the reason the job comes back.
Only then does it get primed, coated and cured. Powder coating is baked at around 200°C, which is why it is far tougher than an air-dried paint, and why the wheel has to be off the car and the tyre off the wheel to do it at all.
Six things, not four
Everything below is in the quoted figure. If a price elsewhere is lower, these are usually the lines that are missing from it.
Tyres off and back on
Removed, refitted, balanced and the valves replaced. A wheel cannot be coated with a tyre on it, so anyone quoting a refurb without this is quoting something else.
Chemical strip
Not blasted. The old finish is dissolved off so the alloy underneath is left as cast, which is what gives a gloss finish its depth.
Corrosion cut out
Every pit taken back to clean metal and filled properly. Left in, it keeps spreading under the new coating and lifts it within a year or two.
Primer and powder
A corrosion-resistant primer, then the colour coat, then a clear lacquer. Three layers, each cured before the next goes on.
Oven cured at 200°C
Baked rather than left to dry. This is the step that makes powder coating hard enough to survive a winter of salt and grit.
Twelve month warranty
On finish and adhesion, on your invoice. If it lifts, flakes or blooms inside a year we do it again at our cost.
Priced by wheel size
Bigger wheels take more material, more masking and more oven time, so they cost more. These are the standard rates — the quote you get back against a photo is the actual figure.
Collection and delivery are included across the patch. Welding, straightening and heavily corroded wheels are quoted on top after we have seen a photograph — and if a wheel is not worth saving we will say so rather than take the money.
What happens in 48 hours
Collected and loan wheels fitted
We come to you, swap your wheels for a road-legal loan set, and the car carries on being a car.
Tyres off, wheels inspected
Checked for buckles, cracks and how much metal is left. Anything beyond saving, you hear before work starts.
Chemically stripped
Old lacquer dissolved off rather than blasted. Corrosion pits cut back to clean metal and filled.
Primed, coated, cured
Three layers, each baked at around 200°C and cured before the next. This is the part that cannot be hurried.
Tyres refitted and balanced
New valves, balanced on the machine, and every wheel photographed finished.
Back on the car
Torqued with a calibrated wrench to the manufacturer’s figure, warranty emailed before we leave.
Before you book
How long will the finish last?
A properly stripped and powder-coated wheel should look right for six to eight years in normal use, and we warrant it for twelve months against lifting, flaking and blooming.
What shortens it is kerbing it again, aggressive acid wheel cleaners, and living within sight of the sea. The first is you, the second is avoidable, and the third is why we offer a sealant.
Can you match my original factory colour?
Usually, from the manufacturer’s paint code. Some metallics and the pearlescent greys are genuinely hard to match in powder, and where that is the case we will tell you before you commit rather than after you have seen it.
If only one or two wheels are being done, matching matters far more than if all four are. We would rather do the set.
What if a wheel turns out to be cracked?
We stop and ring you. Cracks on the inner barrel can often be welded and the wheel saved. Cracks through a spoke or across the mounting face cannot be made safe, and we will not coat a wheel like that to make it look fine.
You pay nothing for a wheel we refuse.
Is powder coating better than paint?
For alloys, yes, in almost every case. It is thicker, harder and baked rather than air dried, so it resists chips and salt far better. Wet paint has its place for some multi-stage factory finishes, and we will say which yours needs.
Do I need all four done?
No, and plenty of people do two. Be aware that a freshly refinished wheel next to a three-year-old one will look newer, because it is. On a set that is otherwise in good condition it is rarely noticeable; on a tired set it will be.
Refurbished anywhere here
Collection and delivery are included across the whole patch, so where you are changes the day we come rather than what you pay.
